Hair botox, keratin, nanoplastia: Tips on choosing the right smoothening treatment for your hair type

Hair treatments can offer stunning results but only when chosen and timed correctly. No aesthetic goal should come at the cost of long-term hair health so, consult a trichologist or cosmetologist before undergoing any smoothing procedure, especially if your hair is already stressed.

In an interview with HT Lifestyle, Dr Trishna Gupte, Clinical Cosmetologist and Trichologist Director at The Cosmo Square in Pune’s Koregaon Park, recommend skipping all smoothening treatments if you have:

• Ongoing hair thinning or post-illness hair loss

• A history of autoimmune scalp conditions

• Chemically bleached or excessively colored hair that’s breaking

• Active dandruff, seborrheic dermatitis, or scalp psoriasis

She said, “Instead, focus on medical treatments like low-level laser therapy (LLLT), PRP, or biotin-rich topical solutions, along with internal hormonal and nutritional assessments.”
Hair botox: Deep conditioning for damaged hair (not for straightening)

What is hair botox? Is this breakthrough hair care treatment really worth the beauty hype?
What it is:

Dr Trishna Gupte said, “Despite the name, Hair Botox doesn’t involve any actual botulinum toxin. It’s a deep repair treatment using a mix of keratin, collagen, vitamins, and amino acids that hydrates and smoothens the hair shaft.”
Best for:

Dry, frizzy, coloured, or chemically processed hair needing repair—not straightening.
Doctor’s Note:

According to Dr Trishna Gupte, this is the gentlest of the three. Dr Trishna Gupte shared, “It improves texture without altering the natural curl pattern. However, if you are already experiencing hair thinning or active shedding, I advise caution. Even non-chemical treatments can weigh down fragile roots and interfere with natural regrowth.”
Keratin treatment: Semi-permanent straightening with a chemical caution

Keratin treatments put lost protein back in the hair, restoring health and leaving it shiny, smooth and frizz-free.
What it is:

Dr Trishna Gupte explained, “Keratin treatments use heat to infuse keratin protein into the hair, reducing frizz and semi-permanently straightening the strands. Some variants contain formaldehyde or similar agents for longer-lasting results.”
Best for:

Frizzy, wavy hair that’s difficult to manage.
Doctor’s Note:

While the outcome is visually impressive, Dr Trishna Gupte does not recommend this treatment for anyone with existing breakage, hormonal hair fall or damaged cuticles. This is because the high heat and chemical exposure can cause further hair shaft damage and scalp inflammation in sensitive individuals.
Nanoplastia: Natural straightening that goes deep
What it is:

Dr Trishna Gupte revealed, “Nanoplastia uses nano-molecular technology combined with natural ingredients like amino acids and collagen to smooth and straighten hair.”
Best for:

All hair types, particularly clients looking for formaldehyde-free, long-lasting straightening.
Doctor’s Note:

Dr Trishna Gupte concluded, “This is often positioned as a safer alternative to keratin, and for many, it is but keep in mind—it’s still a heat-intensive procedure. If your hair is chemically lightened, overly porous, or your scalp is reactive, even this treatment can trigger dryness or breakage.”.